Which Termite Barrier will suit your home?
There are several elements which will govern which type of Termite Barrier will suit your property. This comes down to the dwellings construction type, what surrounds the dwelling, moisture content of the soil and your Termite Risk Factor.
The Termite Risk Factor has five (5) levels
• Low to Moderate
• Moderate to High
The biggest contributor to a higher risk factor are conducive environments.
What is a conducive environment
A conducive environment is as area of concern around your property that can potentially attract termites and other timber pests.
1. An old hot water service or air conditioner will start leaking onto the ground, making a damp environment close to the house. It is good practise to divert the overflow to a down pipe.
2. A tree stump left in the ground to rot away is the perfect environment for termites to build a nest. Ample food and moisture there for the nest to become very substanial.
3. Timber sleepers that have been treated in a termicide are a popular choice for retaining walls. However over the time being exposed to sun and rain, this chemical breaks down and termites will attack this soft damp timber.
4. Gardens up against dwelling walls are a big no no. This can be a huge attractant to termites. Being a food source they normally are high in moisture. Termites can find their way into your home by gardens which cover up weep holes.
Removing these conducing environments will make you home less appealing to termites and reduce your termite risk factor.
My Home Is On A Concrete Slab.
Homes built on a concrete slab after 1995 should have a physical moisture / termite blanket installed. This sheet sits under the concrete slab and will push termites out to the edges. This is where annual Termite Inspections are important because you have to be aware of such activity. We have seen termites be pushed out to the edge of the physical barrier only to eat through the brick mortar and gain access inside.
Homes on concrete slabs pre 1995 are still susceptible to termite damage. All it takes is a little subsidence under the slab and a crack as small as 2mm and termites can enter. Also if plumbing collars are not fitted correctly termites can enter wet areas of your home and cause expensive damage. We have conducted Building and Pest Inspections to homes where termites have gotten into bathrooms through the slab and caused considerable damage.
What Type Of Termite Barriers Are There?
Termite Bait Stations Barrier (Termite Baiting)
Mostly made up of in ground bait stations these units are roughly 20cm long and 10cm wide. They neatly sit under the grass line and are spread out every 3 metres. The baiting stations are filled with sleeves of eucalyptus which termites are highly attracted to. The stations are place in a line all around the dwelling. The span reach of each unit can be up to 5 metres so having them daisy chained every three metres lets them over lap.
Each termite bait station is checked every 6 to 10 weeks when there is no activity present. If there are termites in some of the systems then the checks are more often at between 4 to 6 weeks. Once termites have been found, a bait chemical is added to the station. This chemical solution is low toxic and slow acting. The reason behind this is so it can be passed onto other termites and make it's way back to the colony. The termite bait stations can be installed in pavers, concrete and soil (lawn and garden). An above ground unit is available as well. This is placed inside the house if there are active termites present there.
Chemical Termite Barrier (Chemical Barrier)
One of the cheapest on the market but the Chemical Termite Barrier is also the most evasive. It has an installation that is very high in labour as it is a chemical treatment to the soil around the foundations of your house. For areas of lawn and garden, a trench has to be dug all the way to the footings of the house. If the soil is high is clay then that needs to be removed and place with fresh high grade soil. This soil is drenched with a termicide and back filled. We do several passes whilst back filling to ensure a great treatment.
If there are some areas around the house that are paved, they can either be removed and replaced. If this is not an option the best method of treatment is simply to drill and inject into the corners of the paver. Concrete paths and driveways can be drilled and injected with the holes being plugged with mortar when finished. Some utilities like hot water and air conditioners may need to temporarily moved forward and then back after the barrier installation. Out Termite Technician will advise this in their quote.
Chemical Reticulation System (Retic System)
A Chemical Reticulation System based on the same fundamentals as a chemical termite barrier. However it has one added advantage of being able to "recharge" the system before the end life of the chemical. For maximum protection the system can be simply replenished by pumping the chemical into the break out boxed installed every 12 metres. Once the trench is dug, piping is laid at the footing of the dwelling. Again similar to the chemical barrier the soil is drenched when being back filled and sprayed with multiple passes. A huge advantage is little to no disturbance after the initial install.
We like to offer a free onsite consultation where we can answer any of your questions and go through your options. The Technician will run you through your termite risk factor and how you can go about lowering it. So be proactive about termite protection and install a termite barrier.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row]